For us, the hardest part of the design process was the cabinetry. We went through a significant no. of revisions trying to get it right, from layout, style or colour, back to layout, it never ended. Once we thought we had the layout finalised, that various inserts or accessories allow you to rethink the layout for the best use of the space. We wanted a clean minamilist look so opted for 'shadowline' sometimes called 'j-scoop' cabinet openings so there were no handles - this looks amazing but you do compromise on internal cabinetry space, so only do this if you have sufficient storage room.
Then comes the colour of the caesarstone, it's placement and match to other colours in the house and just when you think you've got it coming together, budget becomes an issue. We think we got there, but to be honest we won't know till it's finished. I think we made our biggest step forward when selecting a different coloured caesarstone for the bathrooms and laundry. Although these renders don't show it, we used Ocean Foam in the bathrooms and laundry, and Raven in the kitchen and pantry. A word of warning, collect as many ceasarstone samples as you can as they can vary significantly. You need to account for this variation when picking surrounding colours.
Best tip: When selecting colours, don't try to 'match' adjacent colours in different materials as it will look slightly different, especially under different lighting conditions. If you get it wrong, it will look obvious. Your best bet is to choose a colour that will compliment your colour scheme or pick a bold feature colour (as long as you don't think you'll get sick of it over time).
Stick with neutrals if you plan sell up one day (you need to appeal to the masses) & add colour in your furnishings, decor instead. But if this is your end-state home, go crazy with whatever makes you smile, as long as you're prepared to live with it forever! Or at least until you can afford to replace it.
Here's some CAD imagery...
Tuesday, 4 September 2012
Kitchen, Pantry & Laundry Sinks
My wife and I have similar tastes, which has made the decision making process for the fittings fairly easy. Take the sinks for example, we didn't want a curved edge/corner/bowl, felt the square edged bowls were too commercial and knew it had to be an under-mount. We looked at various styles from Clark and Franke, but settled on the Oliveri Sonetto for the Kitchen, Pantry and Laundry... yes Laundry. I know the laundry sink is generally cheap and nasty, but we exit through our laundry to the side of the house and bbq area, so we wanted something a little nicer to match the rest of the house. You can't find a nice looking laundry sink, so we stuck with the Sonetto for the laundry as well.
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| Sonetto 1063U |
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| Board accessory |
New Hi-fi
I've been a little sidetracked lately trying to figure out what style of hi-fi equipment I want in the new house, as this impacted our cabinetry plans. Most people with the space tend to include home theatre room's and are only concerned with 5.1, 7.1 or 9.1, but I'm purely a 2 channel fan.
We had a small space 3m wide between the gas log fire and 2nd storey windows that I was debating whether to place floor-standing speakers with an entertainment unit or request built in cabinetry. On the plans we had 600mm depth to work with, but soon realised this was not the case. As we had sourced our own windows from Rylock and were trying to determine window size and placement ourselves, we didn't allow for the doubling up of studs between the 4 panels, thus reducing our cabinetry depth to 430mm. This isn't a lot of space for hi-fi equipment!
As I wasn't prepared to compromise on the sound quality (with a limited budget) I came to the conclusion that bookshelf speakers mounted on top of the cabinetry would be a better option both aesthetically, price for performance and practically with kids.
I've now settled on Usher BE 718 DMD speakers, Hypex NCore NC400 DIY power amplifier's and NAD M51 preamp DAC.
We had a small space 3m wide between the gas log fire and 2nd storey windows that I was debating whether to place floor-standing speakers with an entertainment unit or request built in cabinetry. On the plans we had 600mm depth to work with, but soon realised this was not the case. As we had sourced our own windows from Rylock and were trying to determine window size and placement ourselves, we didn't allow for the doubling up of studs between the 4 panels, thus reducing our cabinetry depth to 430mm. This isn't a lot of space for hi-fi equipment!
As I wasn't prepared to compromise on the sound quality (with a limited budget) I came to the conclusion that bookshelf speakers mounted on top of the cabinetry would be a better option both aesthetically, price for performance and practically with kids.
I've now settled on Usher BE 718 DMD speakers, Hypex NCore NC400 DIY power amplifier's and NAD M51 preamp DAC.
Whilst on the subject of entertainment cabinetry, make sure it's well vented for sufficient cooling of all your equipment, especially if your running Class A amps. In our case we've got 20mm clearance behind the base of each door and are having 2 vents mounted in the top surface, primarily for ventilation of the media centre PC. The Hypex NCore's are Class D and produce very little heat.
Sunday, 5 August 2012
Onthehouse property values
Here is a useful website for getting an estimate of a properties price range. You search for the address and it will display a rating Good Guess / Moderate Guess / Rough Guess if the property has some statistical data behind it. A lot of the properties we've looked at in the 'Good Guess' category have a fairly accurate price range for the market, say 3 to 6 months ago.
Sunday, 22 July 2012
Nearmap Update - The Roof
Here's the latest from Nearmap showing the house with the roof on. The hallway has annex ceilings, that can be seen here as a continuation of the upper storey roof line.
Heating & Cooling
In our old house we had gas ducted heating and evaporative cooling. We felt that the ducted heating tended to dry the air (newer internal unit) and the evaporative cooling (albeit an old unit) did exactly the opposite, putting too much moisture into the air. Like most of the other items in the house I spent considerable time looking online and asking people about their preferred option. Here's just a few of the points I'd gleaned;
- Melbourne's cooler climate relies more heavily on heating, therefore gas ducted is the default option
- Reverse cycle AC can be expensive to run if done incorrectly
- Using larger 3 phase multi zone units can be more economical to run
- Mitsubishi commercial are good units
- Daikin or Actron Air are generally the two options at the higher end of the market
- The controller boards in the Daikin are expensive to replace
- Actron Air use Copeland scroll digital compressors (from Emerson USA) and are made in Australia (source: Whirlpool)
- The scroll technology provides variable capacity output from 10% to 100%
- The external module can be noisy, so don't place it near bedrooms
- The internal module is big, so along with the ducting it needs significant space under the house or in the roof
- The ESP Plus system uses variable fan speed technology and can significantly reduce energy consumption
We chose the Actron Air ESP Plus SRD 230C 3 phase 23kw heat/cool model
- Reverse cycle AC can be expensive to run if done incorrectly
- Using larger 3 phase multi zone units can be more economical to run
- Mitsubishi commercial are good units
- Daikin or Actron Air are generally the two options at the higher end of the market
- The controller boards in the Daikin are expensive to replace
- Actron Air use Copeland scroll digital compressors (from Emerson USA) and are made in Australia (source: Whirlpool)
- The scroll technology provides variable capacity output from 10% to 100%
- The external module can be noisy, so don't place it near bedrooms
- The internal module is big, so along with the ducting it needs significant space under the house or in the roof
- The ESP Plus system uses variable fan speed technology and can significantly reduce energy consumption
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| Source: Actron Air |
Thursday, 5 July 2012
Lighting
I thought I was heading down the right track by trying to find the best LED lighting for the house. I researched the various manufacturers and checked colour temperatures, spread, lifespan, consumption and actual appearance compared to existing halogens. I'd come to the conclusion that the best product was the Curve D900 designed by Brightgreen in WA and made in China to their specifications - http://brightgreen.com/.
All of this research went out the window in the space of 2 minutes after meeting our electrician. At ~$125 per LED downlight plus fitting, we quickly found the cost to upgrade was significant $4-5k (based on no. of lights). When our electrician confirmed these are best on the market, but come at a cost that isn't necessarily realised as a cost saving over the life of the product we thought it best to stick with the standard halogen.
We opted for pendant lighting over the kitchen island bench, dining room & powder room as we wanted these areas to be a feature of our home - down lights were also installed in these areas for functional purposes. The pendants we selected are a new product called 'Torino', that are a replica of the Italian Designed AXOLIGHT Spillray Pendant. Available in several colours & configurations, they are a 12v 20w halogen.
We selected the "smoke" colour (pictured below) which compliments our Raven Caeserstone perfectly & have gone with 3 x singles over the island bench, 2 x 3 drop pendants over the dining room & a 6 drop pendant in the powder room to add a bit of retro glamour for guests.
We selected the "smoke" colour (pictured below) which compliments our Raven Caeserstone perfectly & have gone with 3 x singles over the island bench, 2 x 3 drop pendants over the dining room & a 6 drop pendant in the powder room to add a bit of retro glamour for guests.
What month to start building?
With all the rain we've had recently, I began to think about
a concern I had before we started to build - what month/season should you start
building? Some may consider this approach rather pedantic, but considering the
investment you're making in building your new home, it's something worth
considering.
The timing largely depends on the time taken to build, but
with the average build (for our builder) taking between 9 - 12 months, it makes
sense to do site preparation and footings late spring Oct/Nov. The ground is
dry enough to dig footings/pour concrete, but not so dry it's impossible to
dig. Assuming everything else goes to plan you should be at lock-up with the
roof on late April, before any substantial rain in May/June.
In our case we got a lot of rain in May before the lower
roof tiles were laid and we had a lot of water in the house. The water isn't
that much of a problem, as I'd read somewhere that the yellow tongue can be
submerged for 3 months, but you need it to be thoroughly dry before plastering
starts so this did delay our plastering by a few weeks.
Tuesday, 12 June 2012
Heat & Glo 6000 TRSI
We chose to put a Jetmaster Heat & Glo 6000TRSI gas fireplace in our open plan living area upstairs. It can heat a large open plan area and is the only model that can have the optional heat zone outlet ($549). We thought that this may also safeguard us against power costs for the ActronAir ESP Plus 22kw reverse cycle air conditioning, if it gets out of hand.
In our case we ran the heat zone outlet to the downstairs rumpus room for the kids (directly below). According to our site manager, he's never seen it done (and he has done many a fireplace) - we can only put this down to the additional cost of the vent kit & installation (combined cost was an additional $1100) but we think it's money well spent, given our chilly winters & the ever-increasing cost of gas/electricity.
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| Standard black unit with stainless steel surround |
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| 6000TRSI (only) optional heat zone outlet duct |
Lock Up
I've been away for work for a few weeks and the house has progressed well. Cladding, rendering, electrical and plumbing rough in was completed. Here are the progress shots.
The nomenclature for the lock up stage is somewhat misleading, so for those interested;
Lock up Stage – means when the home’s external wall cladding and roof covering is fixed, the flooring is laid and external doors and external windows are fixed (even if those doors or windows are only temporary).
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| Front facade - Daniel Robertson London 50mm & Dulux Stepney render |
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| Bristile Classic Charcoal Tiles, Rylock Charcoal Windows, Dulux Monument Fascia & Gutters |
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| Render basecoat. Who chose the meter box colour? Hmm, guess we'll have to re-spray this after hand-over. |
Monday, 30 April 2012
Corinthian Sunburst Front Door
Here is the Corinthian Sunburst front door and associated Gainsborough hardware we chose. We went with the Corinthian Pivot door system in full height 2340mm x 1200mm - the system gives the door that "floating feeling", especially given it's weight. It's an expensive door at $3-$4k, given the 1000mm versions can be installed for $1k, but why not make a Grand entrance!
More details here
More details here
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| From Corinthian website, must be 2040 x 1200 |
| Our Door... 2340 x 1200... nice! |
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| Note - Gainsborough products can be seen at the Caroma Concepts Centre in each state. |
Saturday, 28 April 2012
Mains switching pumps
We already had 2 x 2500ltr tanks, so all we needed was the pump to provide rainwater to the toilets as part of our energy star rating. Most builder's spec the Davey Rainbank series, in our case a KRBS2 internal pump. The internal pumps are used to reduce noise and may last longer as they are a sealed unit? I still wasn't certain which particular model I wanted based on capacity and whether it should be an internal or external unit in the event of maintenance, warranty, etc. A quick search and I came upon these comments on whirlpool.
The mains switching should not be electronic, in the event of a power failure (very rare) and the electronics in current systems tend to fail.
The AcquaSaver water diversion is hydraulically operated and seems to fit the bill nicely.
Claytech engineering partner their pumps with the AcquaSaver so I began to look at their CMS5A until I realised it's the same unit as a Leader LMS5A. Leader are sold by Bunnings, so I will get a friend to place a special order.
UPDATE: I overlooked something obvious. When flushing the toilet at night, an external pump will be noticeably louder. We've ordered the Leader LMS 6A internal pump with aquasaver water diversion and mounting plate.
The mains switching should not be electronic, in the event of a power failure (very rare) and the electronics in current systems tend to fail.
The AcquaSaver water diversion is hydraulically operated and seems to fit the bill nicely.
Claytech engineering partner their pumps with the AcquaSaver so I began to look at their CMS5A until I realised it's the same unit as a Leader LMS5A. Leader are sold by Bunnings, so I will get a friend to place a special order.
UPDATE: I overlooked something obvious. When flushing the toilet at night, an external pump will be noticeably louder. We've ordered the Leader LMS 6A internal pump with aquasaver water diversion and mounting plate.
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| Leader LMS 6A |
Video Intercom Options
Our electrician quoted on the installation for a video intercom system and it seemed quite expensive. No doubt it was a good unit, but since I'd previously installed a cheap system in the old house and still had the camera mounted in the front fence (yes, we managed to keep most of the front fence during construction) I was keen to do this myself.
When you start looking around it seems that a lot of these systems are chinese branded products that can be purchased on ebay or advertised in bulk on alibaba. Quality tends to vary in these units, as evidenced by our previous model whereby the volume adjustment just didn't work, so I wanted to find a reputable brand or proven product. This is where I came across Samsung video intercoms. It seems that most people are impressed with the high resolution graphics and have only good things to say about them.
Samsung SHT-6810 from Digital Doorlocks (~$3k with automation backend requirements)
When you start looking around it seems that a lot of these systems are chinese branded products that can be purchased on ebay or advertised in bulk on alibaba. Quality tends to vary in these units, as evidenced by our previous model whereby the volume adjustment just didn't work, so I wanted to find a reputable brand or proven product. This is where I came across Samsung video intercoms. It seems that most people are impressed with the high resolution graphics and have only good things to say about them.
Samsung SHT-6810 from Digital Doorlocks (~$3k with automation backend requirements)
Samsung SHT-7507 + SHT-7171 + SHT-CN610 ($1100) < Will probably go with this one
Futuro is a proven Chinese unit by Videoman
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| Futuro 7.2M (ebay) |
Monday, 16 April 2012
Goop Guys temporary window coating
Our Rylock windows were supplied without protective film on the glass, something to do with their handling policy. The protective film prevents the glass getting scratched during bricking and rendering. At the time we didn't think of it and asked for the film to be supplied along with the windows. We went to Rycon and asked them whether they could apply the film, but getting chippies to apply window film is not the best use of their time.
Whilst driving through a Mirvac estate in Wantirna we noticed advertising on the windows for Goop Guys. Goop Guys provide a great service applying water based peelable coatings to windows, benches, floors, baths and cars. David from our local franchise was really helpful in explaining the process and came onsite at just the right time to apply the coating to the ground floor windows after they'd been installed and the upstairs windows whilst they were still stacked downstairs. Application costs ~ $350-400.
As you can see here the windows have been installed, goop applied and the bricking is continuing.
Whilst driving through a Mirvac estate in Wantirna we noticed advertising on the windows for Goop Guys. Goop Guys provide a great service applying water based peelable coatings to windows, benches, floors, baths and cars. David from our local franchise was really helpful in explaining the process and came onsite at just the right time to apply the coating to the ground floor windows after they'd been installed and the upstairs windows whilst they were still stacked downstairs. Application costs ~ $350-400.
As you can see here the windows have been installed, goop applied and the bricking is continuing.
Tuesday, 27 March 2012
Framing mostly complete
The upper story is taking shape and the hallway annex is going up
Garage trusses now in place
Master bedroom and ensuite trusses in place, along with front windows
Rylock Windows Arrived
Our Rylock Windows were delivered to site this week and now sit on the ground awaiting installation. The process of window selection was by no means an easy task, deciding on style, manufacturer, size, type, etc. In our case we chose thermally improved double glazed aluminium windows for the whole house, with low-e glass on the north facing windows. The standard supplier offered a large selection, but not the same quality as a specialist supplier. Window type/quality (i.e. standard residential vs. commercial grade) vary greatly in price and you can soon find you've doubled the budget for windows, be warned.
Tuesday, 20 March 2012
Stylish Shower Drains
Thought I'd look for different styles of shower drains and came across some sleek designs, especially this Dallmer integrated linear drain link. Sized at 300x40mm it lines up perfectly with your 600x300mm tiles. It's an expensive option at around $250, but would give any bathroom that extra 'wow' factor.
Update: We approached our site supervisor about changing the drain and he automatically thought we we're going to ask for a channel drain. It's seem like this is a common request, that can be an expensive option depending on the number of showers, length of drain and plumbing changes required. We've also noticed at our friends places that the channel drains tend to clog more frequently, so we think we'll stick with a shower drain gully and waste basket like the following;
Update 2: We ended up purchasing the ACO Gully 150x150mm square tile insert drain. The drains cost ~ $130 each (twice the price of similar products) and are made of stainless steel, rather than chrome plated brass. The total height is also much lower than the ones stocked locally and means the leak control flange will be flush with the cement sheeting in shower base.
Update: We approached our site supervisor about changing the drain and he automatically thought we we're going to ask for a channel drain. It's seem like this is a common request, that can be an expensive option depending on the number of showers, length of drain and plumbing changes required. We've also noticed at our friends places that the channel drains tend to clog more frequently, so we think we'll stick with a shower drain gully and waste basket like the following;
Update 2: We ended up purchasing the ACO Gully 150x150mm square tile insert drain. The drains cost ~ $130 each (twice the price of similar products) and are made of stainless steel, rather than chrome plated brass. The total height is also much lower than the ones stocked locally and means the leak control flange will be flush with the cement sheeting in shower base.
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| ACO (German) - Gully |
Bounty Brassware - Bermuda
Monday, 19 March 2012
Carpet Options
If you walk into a carpet retailer and say you have kids and dogs, they will point you straight to SDN (Solution Dyed Nylon) for stain resistance and high traffic areas. In our case we started with a particular Carpet Call store that was recommended by Rycon and soon found that the options were rather limited given we were after a shade of grey. As a double whammy, most wool/wool blend carpets will have various earth tones only, but if you're after grey that is not (brownish-grey) you will invariably end up with a SDN.
We eventually found a Tuftmaster SDN 60oz carpet with a colour called Gothic 990 which was supposedly exclusive to another supplier, so were about to credit the carpets to go to the other supplier until we found out the 'trick of the trade'. It seems suppliers will provide carpets to retailers under an exclusive only 'range' that leads you to believe they are the only provider. A quick search of the exact colour may lead you to other retailers who have the carpet you are after under another 'range' and Carpet Call were able to source this range after all.
For the underlay we chose the heaviest Airstep Supa Blue to add that super plush feel; we'd highly recommend upgrading your underlay given the cost is negligible (specifications)
We eventually found a Tuftmaster SDN 60oz carpet with a colour called Gothic 990 which was supposedly exclusive to another supplier, so were about to credit the carpets to go to the other supplier until we found out the 'trick of the trade'. It seems suppliers will provide carpets to retailers under an exclusive only 'range' that leads you to believe they are the only provider. A quick search of the exact colour may lead you to other retailers who have the carpet you are after under another 'range' and Carpet Call were able to source this range after all.
For the underlay we chose the heaviest Airstep Supa Blue to add that super plush feel; we'd highly recommend upgrading your underlay given the cost is negligible (specifications)
Summary of underlay options and good site for getting an idea on pricing Online Carpet Underlay
Thursday, 1 March 2012
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