Rental Fatbars RC High

I'm 6'4" and find most standard bike setups too low and cramped. With my old KTM I had a tall seat and bar risers/raisers, essentially blocks of aluminium mounted under the bar mounts with longer bolts into the top triple clamp. The problem with bar risers is they change the weighting over the front wheel and therefore the feel of the bike.

For my new FX450, I added PHDS bar mounts without the spacers & decided to look for handlebars with a different rising height to allow for that extra height without changing the weighting over the front wheel.

After many hours searching and reading forums I settled on the Renthal Fatbar RC High link

These are the closest length wise to KTM standard bars for added leverage, have a flat feel, but significantly increased height/rise as you can see below.

Model	Part No	Dim A	Dim B	Dim C	Dim D	Dim E
KTM HIGH	826-01	805	95	68	205	42
KTM LOW	822-01	806	84	52	205	41
RC HIGH	609-01	802	119	80	200	54

VW Certified Oils / Dealer Service Costs

Took the R36 to get it's first service last week & the local dealer did a good job. They rotated wheels, aligned sunroof, programmed 9W7 for steering wheel and normal oil change, etc. All seemed to be going well until I got to the oil section on the invoice 'Shell Helix 5W-40'. I immediately recognised the error, knowing that all current VW petrol engines tend to run a 5W-30, specifically the VW Longlife III 504/507 or Castrol equivilant. After contacting the dealer for clarification I was told that it is a local VAG decision due to Australia's hot climate. The only problem with that explanation, was Shell's website made no mention of 5W-40 being VW certified. I questioned this with VAG & promptly received a call from the dealer to change the oil again for the correct 5W-30. Moral of the story, check the oil the dealer is putting in your car, as it may not be VW certified. I've got a sneaking suspicion it is one way to reduce the quoted cost of the service, i.e the 5W-40 is $15 less per 5ltrs, so the dealer can reduce upfront service quote. I've also read a few comments about people bring their own oil, which may have it's merits in ensuring they use the correct oil and often can be purchased for less at Supercheap or Autobahn.

link

List of 504/507 certified oils link

Brightgreen D900 Curve LED Lights

Apparently there are new building requirements limiting the power consumption for lighting to 5 watt per sqm, so for your average 50 watt downlight this equates to 10 sqm of roof area or spaced every 3.3 m. I don't know how this will look or what your typical spacing is, but I've been looking into energy efficient downlights & it seems the only viable option is the Brightgreen D900 curve. link

They're priced ~ $120 each, so it could be a costly upgrade from normal downlights, but they may be a better alternative than having to change lighting designs (i.e. downlight configuration) to comply with regulations.

Trailtech Striker Digital Guage

When equipping a motocross bike with a speedometer, there are many options. You could purchase the oem product from the equivalent trail / enduro model, but this is often an expensive solution or track down one of the many 3rd party options and hope they integrate with your setup. Trailtech have been making speedometers for a while & from what I recall the earlier models had reliability issues. The current generation seem to offer a lot of features for a good price.

I decided on the Striker, as it has temperature and voltage readouts. The temperature is good for KTM / Husabergs without the cooling fan kit and the voltage is essential with EFI systems.

STRIKER link

BLACK HOUSING

The black housing allows me to include the low fuel and efi lights included with the stock bike and the additional light lo / hi lights once I add the headlight and taillight.

Mounted to triple clamps (mount upside down)

Stealth Striker with housing

Thermally Efficient Blinds

When making window selections and looking at double glazing, frame materials, etc, it's also worth considering the blinds you'll be using. Most people, including myself, are aware of heavy drape curtains with pelmets providing good thermal insulation, but I wasn't aware of cellular or honeycomb blinds. Much like the structure of a double glazed window with an air gap, the honeycomb blinds have an air cell to improve thermal performance.

HONEYCOMB / CELLULAR BLINDS

When looking at blinds, we found it difficult to go past blinds online for service, range and price & we haven't even ordered them yet. We have requested several samples of various types / colours and it's a fantastic service. link

Tilt Window

We found an interesting window design at the HIA Home Show this year, the Smartech Tilt Window System. Its a large openable window that is counterbalanced, opening vertically into the room, like a garage door.

Check out their website, it's a fairly new product developed locally. link

Finished Opening Sizes for Smart – Tilt Window System     

Height: 1600mm, 1800mm 

Width: 1000mm, 2200mm

Sashless Windows

We have a view from our upstairs living area and thought it best to find a window that maximises the view, offers large openings for that open air feeling and is reasonably priced. A simple task you may say, but adding large areas of glass to 2nd stories becomes an expensive exercise, with cranes and on site glazing requirements.

Sashless windows seem to offer that open air feeling, so we had a look at the following products - Shugg Windows & Anneta Windows

FLOOR TO CEILING SASHLESS WINDOWS

Initial prices directly from the manufacturers was astronomic, but follow up quotes from window suppliers were much more realistic (no idea why?).

Thermally Improved Aluminium Windows

It seems a lot of builders are selecting wooden windows for their houses (cheaper than aluminium double glazed), but this may have more to do with energy compliance and associated heat loss rather than aesthetics. The thought of painting / re-oiling timber windows every few years just doesn't sit well with me. I've seen raw aluminium windows in my grandmothers house last over 50 years with little to no maintenance, so logically I chose aluminium windows. Upon closer inspection it seems aluminium windows come in a variety of frame and glazing types that dramatically impact their performance. In their most basic form, single glazed aluminum windows rate very poorly for heat / cool loss due to aluminum being such a good conductor.

After reading a lot of information about windows on HomeOne forum, I quickly realised there was a lot that goes into a simple window.

Ed from EcoClassic is a window supplier with a lot of expertise in this area and a wealth of knowledge when it comes to window design. Just have a look at the window section on HomeOne for his very enlightening comments.

uPVC have the best energy performance, followed by Timber, then Aluminium

When looking at aluminium windows you have your basic variety, thermally improved and thermally broken. The basic variety may not be suitable for today's energy star requirements and you may be requested to change size or location when seeking 6 star energy compliance. Thermally broken windows tend to be too expensive for most consumers, so this leaves thermally improved double glazed as your best choice.

WERS rating link & explanation on youtube

EXAMPLE OF THERMALLY IMPROVED

6 Star Standard link

You can achieve the 6 Star Standard with a few simple adjustments to design and construction, and by including a combination of the many options to improve the building's energy-efficiency, such as:

• Orientation: passive solar design 
• Insulation
• Draught-proofing and sealing of the building's envelope
• Better window design (including size, location, quality thermal performance of frames and glazing) 
• Shading
• Building fabric (including selection of cladding materials, flooring)

Rycon House Build

As the family expands, we've decided that renovations aren't going to give us what we need and so demolish / rebuild becomes the only option. Yes, it will cost more, but in the long run we don't plan on moving anytime soon and feel we get more for our money. Preliminary plans are almost complete and we're going through the specifics now. Here is the facade of our new 36 sq custom split level home.

VW Oil - Liquid Gold

For anyone new to VW, you may be interested to know that some of their engines go through 1 ltr of oil every 5000km. I first learnt about it with the EOS 2.0 TSI engine & after checking with friends who owned a Golf GTI & Audi TT I soon realised it was a common theme. This wouldn't be so much a problem if the oil wasn't so expensive and specific. Here is a picture of the liquid gold.

There is a lot of information out there about why it happens, although the dealer will typically explain it's due to 'harder' driving styles. Make sure you ask for a bottle when purchasing a new vehicle, as it will get you through to at least the first service. link

KTM Fuel Filter #78141013044

KTM recently released an OEM fuel filter for EFI equipped bikes. As it's now a KTM item, I'd highly recommend it's installation into the fuel line. It saves you from having to retrofit / modify the fuel line with 3rd party components & is reasonably easy to install. link

KTM EFI In-Line Fuel Filter

Part No: 78141013044 #26 in the image

DirtTricks Cam Chain Tensioner

On most KTM & Husabergs, including the earlier RFS & XC4 motors, the cam chain tensioner doesn't work that well. On the RFS motor it was a ratchet design. As the chain wears, slight spring tension pushes the guide in towards the chain & the push rod moves forward one notch. It allowed the cam chain a fair amount of slack & this translates to excessive cam chain noise / engine noise. A friend's XC4 motor even had the push rod come loose, preventing the motor from starting. He promptly replaced it with the Dirttricks cam chain tensioner.

I decided to do this straight away for the FX450, rather than waiting till there is excessive noise, as it's an easy replacement. link

Dirt Tricks tensioner to the rear (bronze)

For berg installation you need to drop the 

bike on it's side for the ratchet to stay in place

KTM must have caught on, as their new 2012 450 engine has a new 'mechanical cam chain tensioner' link

Husaberg FX450 2010

Here's my new baby. 2010 Husaberg FX450
Sold the old faithful KTM 450 EXC 2003 after many years of reliable dirtbiking.

Check out some the reviews 2010 link 2011 link

Will start to update details of mods... after a I fix it. First ride out I flipped it and snapped the bars off, snapping throttle cables and crushing clutch pipe.

NEW BABY

OLD FAITHFUL

Climatronic Climate Control System

Having just clocked up 15k and due for it's first service, I thought I should ask about the climate control. It seems that the sensor is located centrally in the dash, that is prone to temperature fluctuations when sun hits it. I normally set the unit to manual, no ac, with a low fan speed of 20/21 degrees. When driving with sun hitting the dash I notice that sporadically the fan kicks into high, thinking that the cabin temperature has all of sudden risen. Once you change direction and the sun is no longer on the dash, it shortly returns to normal. This appears to be a design flaw & I thought I had read somewhere that the sensor can be removed and the top part covered to stop direct sun impacting it's performance. It's booked for a service next week, so I'll see if there is any resolution.


In the meantime I found this handy information on the climatronic system.


Ask a Salesguy explaining the correct operation link


VW Climatronic Readouts (courtesy of VWWatercooled)


1. Hold down "ECON", and press the "up-vent" button (next to recirculation). Both temperature displays will read 00 or 00'0, and you can release the buttons once they do.
2. Twist the LEFT temperature knob until the display above reads 19’0.
3. Twist the FAN knob until the left temperature display reads 19’1 (like 19.1).
4. The right temperature display is now a digital speedometer! HOW COOL IS THAT!!!


--- For tach (in x100), twist the FAN knob until the left temperature display reads 19’3 (like 19.3)


--- To reset and go back to normal operation, hit the ECON button once.


These are the different settings the Climatronic can display. The numbers on the left indicate the “CHANNEL” it MUST be SET to:


• 1.0: Temp as read by sensor in middle fan speed knob.
• 1.4: Light intensity falling on same sensor.
• 4.0: Outside Temp – front bumper
• 4.1: Outside Temp – roof.
• 4.2: Outside Temp – rear bumper (inside temp?)
• 15.0: Oil Temp
• 19.0: Uncorrected Speed (Km/h)
• 19.1: Uncorrected Speed (Mp/h)
• 19.2: Coolant Temp
• 19.3: Tachometer (x100rpm)
• 19.4: Oil Pressure
• 25.0: Voltage